Sunday, August 23, 2009

Sunday Funday Surprise...




I never thought I would like a Hurricane that didn't make landfall and provide me with job security, but how do I love thee Hurricane Bill. Waking up early this morning I took a look outside as I always do just see what's going on with the ocean and what do I see....head high surf and glassy conditions. The reef right outside my front door that is generally a smallish close-out every day was head high and peeling for at least 50 yards. It turns out as Bill pushed by and sent waves in from the North instead of the East it created a perfect peeling left.

It works best at high tide due to serious exposed reef action at any other time. I have never seen anyone surf this reef in the past couple of years and wasn't sure if it was surfable. The fact there is HEAVY boat traffic and it's almost a half mile paddle out might have something to do with the lack of a crowd. It turned out to be quite a fickle break, but I did score some nice long lefts when everything else was breaking as closeouts on shore. Who would have thought you could find a great wave with no one on it right in front of everyone.

This photo below is of me paddling out and a photo of the poor sea turtle eggs that were getting destroyed by the big surf.


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