More Photos from Hurricane Bill...

The pictures above are from Sebastian Inlet. The one below I found online which was taken in North Carolina from Hurricane Bill.

Sunday Funday Surprise...

I never thought I would like a Hurricane that didn't make landfall and provide me with job security, but how do I love thee Hurricane Bill. Waking up early this morning I took a look outside as I always do just see what's going on with the ocean and what do I see....head high surf and glassy conditions. The reef right outside my front door that is generally a smallish close-out every day was head high and peeling for at least 50 yards. It turns out as Bill pushed by and sent waves in from the North instead of the East it created a perfect peeling left.

It works best at high tide due to serious exposed reef action at any other time. I have never seen anyone surf this reef in the past couple of years and wasn't sure if it was surfable. The fact there is HEAVY boat traffic and it's almost a half mile paddle out might have something to do with the lack of a crowd. It turned out to be quite a fickle break, but I did score some nice long lefts when everything else was breaking as closeouts on shore. Who would have thought you could find a great wave with no one on it right in front of everyone.

This photo below is of me paddling out and a photo of the poor sea turtle eggs that were getting destroyed by the big surf.

Hurricane Bill Swell - Sebastian/Vero Beach

This past Friday and Saturday I was lucky enough to share some waves resulting from Hurricane Bill with my friend Jordan up the coast here in Florida. His hospitality was more than gracious and I enjoyed head high or better surf the whole time at his favorite local break, which will remain nameless. I haven't seen waves that big or clean since moving to Florida. Friday's surf was consistent and glassy in the morning, but had somewhat of a strong current. Having gone back to my shortboard for the first time in a loooong time I was quickly warn out by the paddling, but had a great time nonetheless. On Saturday, we awoke to a pod of dolphin swimming through the lagoon off the back of Jordan's house. We hit the water bright and early around 7am on Saturday and shared clean, albeit smaller waves with no less than 30 people on one break. I think the secret spots secret got out. The first picture below is from Sebasatian Inlet on the north side and the second picture is from the spot we actually surfed at both days. It reminded me of a super clean, couple of feet overhead day at Rightovers on North Shore. Barring another tasty hurricane swell it looks like I will have to get back in the water as a diver for the time being.

If at first you don't succeed, try, try again...

Yesterday, my roommate Chris and I set off to dive for lobster. This was my first time attempting to dive for lobster and I was unsure how it would turn out. Sadly, we didn't make it very far. As we walked out to the beach we noticed two things, the ocean was breaking head high on the beach and a large storm was moving in. After assessing our situation we decided to continue with our dive. Being my first time to dive with a spear, tickle stick (lobster snair) and my new fins, I was a little concerned how the shore break would treat me. It was less than kind. Within the first 30 seconds, I sucessfully strapped both of my fins on and than the calamity of errors began. I dropped my spear in water with less than 1ft of visibility, the storm hit and my BC decided to rapidy continue to inflate for no reason. I was basically stuck at the top of head high shore break, getting pounded, unable to dive down to find my spear in the murky water. Luckily my roommate located it and we happily exited the ocean. Some times things just aren't meant to be. I am headed up to Central Florida tomorrow and Saturday to catch the swell from Hurricane Bill. Early reports have the swell peaking at 10ft. I've surfed waves almost twice that big, but never surfed 10ft shore break. We will see how that turns out. Hopefully I will be able to post some amazing pictures. Until then...

Las Olas - Mi Casa

I've recently decided to dedicate my blog to the adventures of Las Olas. Basically chronicling the adventures of living on the beach. Within the first two weeks of living in my new place on the beach I have surfed more than I have in the past year combined (minus the Hawaii vacation). Also, I have taken up free diving and lobster diving with Nitrox.

My roommate Chris and I have already spent a few hours checking out the first and second reefs south of the inlet and have come across some interesting things. I received my lobster license yesterday and we are planning a nice long Nitrox dive next to the inlet channel tomorrow for lobster right where we watched two free divers max out their limit of "bugs" today. Wish us luck, I will report back with our results!

Spring Sessions

The weather is finally starting to warm up. Two decent swells last week but the weather was in the 30's so I didn't brave the elements. A friend of mine just moved to town that is stoked about learning to surf so hopefully that will get me in the water more often. I posted a few pics below of our trace windswell session surrounded by jellyfish as well as a fun little video from Shrimp Creole summarizing the SoFla surf scene in January. Enjoy for now...








South Florida Surf In January 2009 from Shrimp Creole.com on Vimeo.